Cascais, Portugal

Cascais was an unplanned stop in our itinerary but we could no longer bear the cigarette smoke smell in our apartment in Estoril, so we moved 15 minutes away to an apartment with a bit of an ocean view from our patio.  We chose the location for proximity to sights we wanted to see, and we are walking distance to the ocean and downtown Cascais.

Cascais was an important fishing town through the Middle Ages, an aristocrat holiday hotspot in the late 1800’s and a safe haven for exiled European royalty in the Second World War.  Benefitting from fresh Atlantic breezes the town is a favorite destination for the Portuguese, especially residents of Lisbon.  The town is also one of the wealthiest in Portugal and one of the most expensive real estate markets, as we saw by the many large mansions along the sea front. (click on any photo to enlarge)

Cascais is 30 minutes west of Lisbon and we have been to Lisbon before so we only popped in once for the day.  Because it was a Saturday we decided to drive and park in a free parking lot beside the river in Belem.  Our first stop was the lovely Belem Tower, built in Portuguese Manueline style between 1514 and 1520.  Originally conceived as a lighthouse, it was eventually built as a fortress to defend the city from invading ships.

Further inland along the river is the Monument to the Discoveries.  Inaugurated in 1960 it commemorates the five hundredth anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator, who discovered the Azores, Madeira and Cape Verde.  Henry stands at the front of the monument holding a carrack, a type of sailing ship used by the Portuguese.

A short walk away from the river is the Mosterio dos Jeronimos that took over 100 years to build, beginning in 1501.  The monastery is one of the most prominent examples of the late Portuguese Gothic Manueline style of architecture in Lisbon.  The Hieronymite monks occupied the monastery for over 4 centuries until 1833, when the religious orders were dissolved and the monastery was abandoned.

Near the Monastery is the famous Pasteis de Belem bakery, and pretty much the main reason I wanted to come to Belem 😂  Being the trooper that I am, I have tried Pastel de Nata (egg custard tarts) all over Portugal and these are hands down the best.  Pasteis de Belem has been making their tarts since 1837 following an ancient recipe created by the nuns of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.  That secret recipe is recreated every day in their bakery, by hand, using only traditional methods.  These time honored Portuguese sweets continue to win awards every year for the quality of their product.  The cost for each tart is 1.50 Euros (USD $1.55) and they are worth every penny!

After enjoying our pasteis we hopped on bus #728 to the heart of Lisbon and spent the next few hours walking around the old part of the city admiring the sights.  The bus cost 2.20 Euros (USD $2.26) each per journey, no matter how many stops you stay on.  Arriving at the Praca do Comercio we walked under the Arco da Rua Augusta, up Rua Augusta to the Santa Justa elevator, on to the Lisbon Cathedral and up to the Praca de Luis de Camoes to watch the antique trams roll by.  We boarded Tram 24 up to Miradouro Sao Pedro de Alicantara for views over Lisbon and walked back down to the river admiring the pretty buildings along the way .  A tram ride cost 3.20 Euros (USD $3.30) each.

From the miradouro we walked down to the Time Out Market for a well earned meal.  We have been to this market before and it’s a fun, happening place with numerous food and beverage choices.  I even found an Aperol Spritz bar!  From there we took the electric train back to Belem and bought some more Pasteis de Belem to take home with us.  Yummmmmmy  😋  The electric train cost 3.20 Euros (USD $3.30) each.

 

Obidos is one of the finest examples of a medieval Portuguese walled town, one of the best destinations of the Lisbon region and only about an hour north of Cascais.  Encircled by a ring of medieval walls and crowned by a Moorish castle, this medieval gem was previously owned by the Queen of Portugal, a tradition that began in 1214 when the town was gifted to Queen Isabel on her wedding day.  This custom continued until the 19th century and this royal patronage helped preserve Obidos’ architectural integrity.

The walled historic center is entered through the southern gate of Porta da Vila.  Its unassuming exterior belies the beauty within as you pass underneath a stunning chapel embellished with eighteenth-century azulejo decoration.  The gateway was originally constructed in the 14th century and rebuilt in the 17th century with the blue and white azulejo tiles.  The ceiling is also lined with colored tiles creating a striking effect.  The gateways design with two small offset entrances is a medieval defensive feature preventing cavalry from charging directly into the town and impossible for attackers to use battering rams.  As we walked through the gate a busker was singing and playing guitar, it was incredible to hear his voice echoing within the gate.

Once inside the walls we discovered pretty cobbled streets lined with traditional houses and an impressive medieval castle.  We walked the 1.5 km walkable portion of the walls that encircle the town, taking great care because there are no railings along the edge.  While the origins of the walls date back to the Moorish era (8th to 12th century) the current walls largely date from the 18th century, having been restored after the devastating 1755 earthquake.

The Igreja de Santa Maria, Obidos’ main church has a rich religious history.  Originally a Visigoth temple, it became a mosque during Moorish rule before being converted to a Christian church in 1148.  The current church dates from the 16th century, rebuilt after the 1535 earthquake damaged the original Gothic structure.  The interior is adorned with decorative azulejo tiles and Gothic religious art, reflecting the church’s layered past.  The church gained historical significance in 1444 when 10 year old King Alfonso V married his cousin, 8 year old Isabel.  A royal union arranged purely for political reasons!

The Pelourinho de Obidos stands as a stark reminder of medieval justice.  This 15th century granite pillory was once used for the public punishment and humiliation of criminals.

The Aqueduto de Obidos was constructed in the 16th century to provide water to Obidos.  Featuring 127 arches it was built with limestone blocks and without mortar.  Remarkably, the aqueduct still supplies public fountains with fresh water today.

The Santuario do Senhor Jesus da Pedra is a striking hexagonal shaped church just outside Obidos’ walls.  Built between 1740 and 1747 the unusual six sided layout focuses on the stone crucifix on the altar.  Legend says this cross has stood here since the 2nd century.

While Obidos may be small we easily spent a few hours walking the walls, wandering the streets and enjoying lunch outside in the sunshine.  During our walkabout we shared a Pastel de Bachalau (fried codfish and cheese cake) and I imbibed a couple of Ginjinha d’Obidos (a sweet cherry liqueur served in a chocolate cup), in the hopes it will keep the cold I have been fighting at bay, so say the monks!

Our final couple of days in Cascais were spent organizing suitcases and scrambling to re-book a flight from Tanzania to Victoria Falls after Kenyan Airways cancelled our flight just 2 weeks before we were scheduled to fly.  Not only did we have to find new flights, we don’t get our money back from Kenyan Airlines for a month.  Such is the life of full time travel, it’s not always smooth sailing 😟

We managed to get sorted with new flights just before leaving Portugal.  Africa here we come…..