I admit it….I am a Lord of The Rings and a Hobbit fan 😃 This is why we have returned to Rotorua, so I can visit Hobbiton again 💕 We were last here over 6 years ago and of course I was just as excited as the first time for the opportunity to tour the magical place called The Shire. But more on that later.
Rotorua sits inside a volcanic caldera, making it one of the most active geothermal fields in the world where you can smell the Earth’s inner workings, thanks to the distinct “rotten egg” scent of sulphur. You can find bubbling mud pools and steaming lakes throughout the city and the surrounding area. Rotorua is also the heartland of Māori culture. About 40% of the population is of Māori descent, and the city offers the most authentic cultural experiences in the country.
Back in 2019, we stayed at a charming Rotorua Airbnb and walked away with much more than just a good night’s sleep—we found friends in our hosts, Lyn and Julian. When we reached out to book their cottage for this trip, we were sad to hear it was unavailable. But in true neighborly fashion, they steered us toward a perfect spot just down the road. Staying on a nearby farm meant we managed a couple of visits with them throughout the week. The best part? Our paths are crossing again in Northern Australia this June! One of the greatest perks of this nomadic life isn’t just the places we see, but the special friendships we get to build along the way.
Although we have been here before it was fun to re-visit some of our favorite places and add in some new experiences. The first place we returned to was Kuirau Park in the heart of the city. It is a large public park with bubbling mud pools, steaming lakes and a foot bath where we gingerly dipped our toes in the steaming hot water.
Right behind the Rotorua Museum, which is closed until 2028 for repairs and renovations, is the Sulphur Point walkway. This is a free walk along the lake where the hydrogen-sulphide smell (rotten eggs) is very evident. The walkway offers several great spots to safely view active geothermal features up close, with steam rising from the ground and gurgling waters. Blair and I both commented that we were able to walk closer to the lake last time we were here but it did feel a bit dangerous even then, so we were not surprised that fencing has been put up to keep folks back. Back then there were signs warning that the ground could collapse under you and not get too close to the open holes…I assume it became too risky.
Pōhutu Geyser is the largest active geyser in the Southern hemisphere, erupting up to 20 times a day and reaching heights of 30 meters. The geyser is located in the Te Puia Geothermal Park and the cost to go on a 90 minute guided tour is NZD $100 (USD $61.88) each. Other than the geyser the tour includes a visit to the mud pools, the Kiwi Conservation Center, a tour through the Maori Arts & Crafts Institute and a 30 minute cultural performance. Once the tour is over you are free to walk about the grounds for as long as you want. We missed seeing the geyser erupt during our tour so we went back and waited for the next eruption.
We spent an afternoon exploring the Okere Falls Scenic Reserve, a lush forest trail that leads you past some of New Zealand’s most impressive water features. While Okere Falls is just a minute’s stroll from the car, the real crown jewel is Tutea Falls, a 15 minute walk along the trail. These falls are a towering 7-meter plunge that draws rafters from all over the world. It is the highest commercially rafted waterfall in the world. We waited for about 30 minutes and the arrival of a professional photographer was our alert that action was imminent. Sure enough, four rafts soon appeared, plunging through the narrow slot into the churning white water below. Judging by the screaming, it’s an absolute rush! Following the rafts, we watched a trio of kayakers navigate the drop with expert precision before continuing our trek 10 minutes further to the more serene Trout Pool Falls, but they were pretty mild comparatively. It was the perfect blend of forest tranquility and exciting spectating. Check out this short video putting together the photos I took of the ‘big drop’ in action.
Just on the edge of Rotorua lies a prehistoric-feeling world, the Whakarewarewa Redwood Forest. We tackled these slopes on moountain bikes during our last visit, this time we hiked the Quarry Track. It’s a 5.5km loop that definitely earns its views, expect a good workout navigating the stairs that take you up and down through the towering canopy. As you head back towards the trailhead, look up. You’ll see the Redwoods Treewalk suspension bridges dangling high above the forest floor.
We saved the absolute best for last, Hobbiton. For a while, it looked like our Middle-earth dreams were dead in the water, with tickets sold out weeks in advance. But I wasn’t ready to give up on The Shire just yet! I spent days stalking their booking site and once in a while tickets popped up so I had my fingers crossed we would get lucky. At one point, a 3:30pm slot teased me, but the math didn’t work for a 2.5 hour tour and the one hour drive time each way. I held my breath, clicked refresh one more time, and—magic. A 9:30am slot for the very next morning popped onto the screen. I’ve never moved faster in my life snapping up those tickets. Talk about Hobbit-luck 🍀 The next morning, we were officially off to see The Shire in all its glory. 🥰
Not everyone knows about Hobbiton, so here is a bit of history, copied from the Hobbiton website:
“In 1998, Sir Peter Jackson’s team of location scouts were searching for the iconic rolling hills and lush green pastures of Hobbiton. An aerial search led them to the Alexander farm, a stunning 1,250 acre sheep farm in the heart of the Waikato. They noted the area’s striking similarity to The Shire, as described by JRR Tolkien, and quickly realised that the Hobbits had found a home.
In one particular part of the farm, a magnificent pine tree towered over a nearby lake, adjacent to a rising hill. Bag End now sits atop that hill, overlooking the Party Tree, as that pine would later be known. The surrounding areas were untouched; no power lines, no buildings and no roads in sight. This meant that Sir Peter Jackson could leave the 20th century behind, and fully submerge himself in the fantasy world of Middle-earth™.
In March 1999 the crew began the nine month quest to bring the ideas for Hobbiton to fruition; help was provided by the New Zealand Army, and soon 39 temporary Hobbit Holes were scattered across the 12 acre plot used for the set. Secrecy was key, and strict security measures were put in place by the production company throughout construction and filming. Filming commenced in December 1999, and it took around three months to get a wrap on The Shire.
After an initial attempt at demolition, 17 bare plywood facades remained. These shells would serve as the catalyst that propelled Hobbiton forward into the public eye, with guided tours commencing in 2002.
In 2009, Sir Peter Jackson returned to film The Hobbit trilogy, and he left behind the beautiful movie set you’ll see today; 44 permanently reconstructed Hobbit Holes, in the same fantastic detail seen in the movies. In 2012 The Green Dragon Inn was opened. Guests now finish their Hobbiton Movie Set experience with a refreshing beverage from the Hobbit Southfarthing Range.
Since 2023, all tours of Hobbiton Movie Set now include an interior Hobbit Hole experience, designed and crafted by the renowned creative teams behind The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit film trilogies. Located on Bagshot Row, the two Hobbit Holes offer an authentic glimpse into the charming dwellings of Hobbits going about their daily lives in the Shire “
That’s a wrap on our week in Rotorua. Next stop, Hastings, in the Hawke’s Bay wine region…..
PS Our farm stay was away from city lights so I took the opportunity to use the GoPro for a fun star trails photo
.
.