Auckland is often treated as a mere gateway to the rest of New Zealand but where else can you grab a flat white at 9am, hike to the rim of 20,000 year-old volcano by noon, and be sipping a Syrah on a vineyard-covered island by sunset. This city of 1.8 million is squeezed onto a narrow strip of land between the harbors of Waitemata, opening to the Pacific Ocean, and the Manukau, opening to the Tasman Sea. You can literally walk from one ocean to another in just a few hours, traversing the narrowest point of New Zealand. Because of this geography, Auckland has the highest boat ownership per capita in the world, earning the nickname ‘City of Sails’. In addition to meeting two different oceans, the city is built on a dormant field of 53 volcanoes so every hill you see from Mount Eden to Rangitoto Island is a dormant volcano. The heritage of the city is reflected in the art, food, music and spirit of the largest Polynesian population in the world. Welcome to Auckland 💕
As Canadians we are on New Zealand’s visa waiver list but we are still required to apply online for an NZeTA and the easiest way to do this is via the app. The application can be done anytime prior to arrival but allow a few days in case there are problems, we applied 10 days before our flight to Auckland and our applications were approved within 24 hours. The cost was NZD $117 (USD $68.40) each and is valid for two years with multiple entries. Each stay in New Zealand is limited to 90 days and you can stay in New Zealand for 6 months total within any 12 month period. In addition to the NZeTA we had to complete a Traveller Declaration no more than 24 hours from our departure for New Zealand. The declaration is submitted via a separate app and electronically attached to your passport. I was able to complete the NZeTA application and the Traveller Declaration for both of us using one application in each app. Having both these forms/declarations completed ahead of time, our clearance through New Zealand immigration and customs was fast and efficient.
After an eight-hour overnight flight from Bali, we touched down in Auckland at 8:00am, exhausted but excited to be in New Zealand. We met our Airbnb host, squeezed in a desperately needed power nap and grabbed a few groceries before heading out for a pre-arranged meet up with fellow Canadians Rose & Ted Brooks. Rose and I have been online friends for a number of years now and the travel gods finally aligned to put us in the same city for exactly one day. As fellow long-term nomads we enjoyed a few hours chatting about nomad life, future plans and the myriad other quirks and challenges of the beautiful chaos of full-time travel. There’s nothing quite like the instant bond you share with people who truly get this lifestyle!
This marks our third visit to Auckland, once in 2019 and a whirlwind stop in 2023 during our cruise from Vancouver, Canada to Sydney, Australia. We’ve always been drawn to the city’s outdoorsy soul and the walkable energy of the CBD (central business district). This time our Airbnb was stationed on Queen Street, the main thoroughfare of the city, and a short walk to the city highlights, especially the 20-plus bars and restaurants of the vibrant Viaduct Harbor. The city was buzzing with the Sail Grand Prix, but with grandstand seats starting at a steep NZD $169 (USD $105) each we opted for a nomads-eye view from Princes Wharf. It was the right call as we watched the high-tech foils fly across the water at breakneck speeds. Fighting the unpredictable gusts definitely kept the pilots on edge and made for exciting times.
Weta Workshop Unleashed is the sister project to the Wellington based Weta Workshop Experiences. The five-time Oscar-winning Wellington location, which we toured back in 2019, produces special effects for television and film. The Auckland version is entirely different, its a 90 minute immersive deep dive experience into the behind the scenes artistry creating the characters, props, scenery and costumes. We screamed at monsters, performed surgery on an alien, remote-controlled a robot, had our faces electronically turned into an alien and had our faces digitally mapped and projected onto a mechanical skull. It was fascinating, educational and jaw dropping how creative the people that work here are. Weta is famous for their work on the Lord of the Rings trilogy and The Hobbit trilogy, but there are many other well known blockbuster movies that they have worked on such as the Avatar series and The Chronicles of Narnia. Our tour cost NZD $55 (USD $33.12) each. (Click on any photo to enlarge)
Even though we have done a free walking tour in Auckland, we decided to double down and join I’m Free Walking Tours for a second look at the City of Sails. During our 2.5 hour trek we wound our way through the Victorian charm of Albert Park and paused to admire some of central Auckland’s most iconic landmark buildings. Our guide kept things interesting as we traced the city’s history from its colonial architecture down to the modern waterfront. As the tour wrapped up we were in a prime spot to catch the final race of the Sail Grand Prix. All that urban exploring worked up our appetite so we headed to Soul Bar & Bistro for a fabulous lunch overlooking the bobbing masts of the marina. It was the ultimate treat after a morning on our feet.
Perched high on the volcanic rim of the Auckland Domain (a large park), the Auckland Museum is far more than just a collection of artifacts. Originally built to honor the staggering loss of New Zealand lives during WWI, the museum has since evloved into a powerful memorial for every New Zealander who served in global conflicts. The scale of the names recorded here is a sobering reminder of the country’s history, and the atmosphere in the memorial galleries is incredibly moving. Beyond the memorials, the museum dives into the history of the South Pacific, from exploring the violent volcanic geological history to the evolution of the Māori and Pacific peoples to the unique flora and fauna that make New Zealand’s ecosystem so distinct. Even if you aren’t a museum person, the building itself is a showstopper. Opened in 1929 this Greek Revival masterpiece is widely considered one of the finest Greco-Roman structures in the Southern Hemisphere. Tickets to the museum cost NZD $27 (USD $16.70) each.
Just a stones throw from the museum lies a hidden gem, the Auckland Domain Wintergardens, a pair of early 20th century glasshouses. Stepping into the courtyard feels like being transported to a formal European estate. The two steel-and-glass structures frame a neoclassical sunken pond, complete with marble statues. The gardens provide an ever-changing floral display that shifts with the seasons. One house is an unheated temperate house and the other a tropical house kept at an average of 28°C that make you feel like you’ve stepped into the heart of a rainforest. Entry to the gardens is free and it was a peaceful retreat after our emotional visit to the War Memorial Museum.
Perched on a hill overlooking the heart of downtown Auckland sits Albert Park. This Victorian-style park features perfectly manicured flower beds, ornate cast-iron fountains and stately bronze statues including a very stoic Queen Victoria. The real stars of the park however are the massive trees with their sprawling roots, some dating back to the 1800’s. Albert Park is the perfect spot for a moment of quiet in this bustling city.
After touching down from Bali, jet lag hit us like a freight train, plus we had a couple of classic Auckland rainy days, so our exploration plans took a backseat to much needed rest. Even with the slower pace, Auckland didn’t lose its charm and I’m sure we will be back this way again.
Next stop, a return visit to the geothermal wonderland of Rotorua…..