Nestled in the heart of southwestern France stands the sacred village of Rocamadour, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built on 3 successive levels, old stone houses, majestic towers and a castle keep cascade off the cliff into the Alzou Canyon. This beautiful medieval village is one of the most visited pilgrimage sites in Europe, attracting visitors not only for it’s religious significance but also for its awe-inspiring landscapes and unique architecture. The town is overrun with tourists in the summer and the narrow streets are impassable, but it’s a totally different scene here in November, virtually everything is closed and there are very few people.
This time of year parking is free so we parked at the top of the cliff by the ramparts and walked down towards the sanctuary. The ramparts were a key part of Rocamadour’s defensive system in the middle ages. The main aim was to protect the Sanctuary from above, closing off the plateau to attacks from outside. From the ramparts there are breathtaking views of the surrounding valley and the rolling hills of the Dordogne region.
Rocamadour’s history as a pilgrimage site dates back to the 12th century. It became famous for the sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin Mary and the relics of St. Amadour, a holy figure believed to have been an early Christian hermit. Pilgrims journeyed to Rocamadour to seek healing and blessings. At the heart of the village sits the Sanctuary of Rocamadour, a series of 8 chapels built around a central courtyard. The buildings appear to defy gravity, seemingly suspended on the cliff face, with narrow streets and stairways connecting each level.
In the Chapelle Notre Dame is the Black Madonna, carved from a walnut tree in the 12th century and supposedly the source of many miracles. The Black Madonna has drawn worshippers from all over Europe in search of a miracle, King Henry II Plantagenet was one of the first pilgrims to come to Rocamadour. Rocamadour has become as important as Mont St Michel as a pilgrimage destination and is the fifth most visited site in France.
From the sanctuary we walked down the 216 steps of the Grand Escalier (Great Staircase) to the village center. The village is basically one main cobblestoned street lined with hotels, restaurants and quaint shops selling regional specialties, all closed up for the winter save for a couple of restaurants open for lunch.
To get back to the top of the cliff we purchased a one way ticket up on the funicular. There are two small trams in town and only the upper one was running, from the mid level sanctuary to the ramparts on the top of the cliff, so we hiked the 216 stairs back up from the village level to the sanctuary to catch our tram.
Rocamadour is a perfect destination for anyone traveling through the region, although summer may not be the best time to visit. We enjoyed the peacefulness (ie closed for the season) of the village and loved having much of the town to ourselves.
Why did we come here? Well, during the Tour de France earlier this year I saw this town along the route and thought it looked fascinating, so we added a couple of days here to our itinerary. I guess you could say I am easily influenced 😂 When we drove over to the other side of the valley the road was still painted with the names of two of the top Tour riders, Remco Evanapoel and Wout van Aert. It was fun to see two familiar names on the steep road they had to climb out of the valley during the race.
Now we’re off to Bordeaux, the wine capital of the world to do you know what…..🍷🍷